Makweti Safari Lodge

Ben and I woke up early Saturday morning (August 1), eager for our safari trip. Rain greeted us. And I can't tell you how many people here have told us "it never rains here." Oh well, we weren’t about to let that put a damper on our adventure! So we jumped in our Honda Jazz and traveled three hours to the Welgevonden game reserve where we then boarded a 4x4 safari vehicle to take us to the Makweti Safari Lodge. We finally arrived at the lovely camp by around 2pm...greeted by zebra and warthogs. There was a zebra at the watering hole in front of the main building that had apparently been attacked by a lion; he had a large gash and chunk of skin hanging down from a back leg. Poor zebra! The staff at the lodge believes that he will be just fine and heal up nicely. I hope they weren't just saying that.... but I guess it's nature after all.

The camp location was quite awesome. Jacque, our personal guide for our stay, showed us around the camp- explaining that we must always have a guide with us after dark because wild animals often make appearances. I sure hoped so!! Makweti is located in a valley surrounded by mountains and wildlife... the fresh mountain air was entirely refreshing after breathing in the smog of the city for the past month and a half. We had our own little cabin with a private deck and even an outdoor shower- although we didn't get to enjoy the outdoor shower due to the cold weather! They also provided us with all sorts of cool travel sized toilletries...which I of course decided were my souvenirs. Quite simply: the room was gorgeous and very romantic!

Lunch was served first thing, so there was not time to enjoy the room. We joined 8 other guests, including a photo journalist and his wife and some of the Makweti guides for a scrumptious traditional South African meal. It was quite tasty; especially after our long drive to the lodge- much better than “Wimpy’s” soggy French fries (similar to McDonald’s but not as yummy in my opinion). Following lunch, we had just a few minutes to prepare for our first safari! We were so excited! But the cold was quite fierce and I had to give in and purchase a trendy Makweti fleece hat prior to our departure! I bundled up in my new safari hat and outfit (I bought specifically for the occasion, the nerdy girl that I am!) and Ben, all man, wore his simple BV jacket fleece. And we were off!

We were grinning like two kids in a candy store as Jacque maneuvered the 4X4 along the bumpy dirt roads. We kept our eyes peeled as we scanned the trees, waters, grasses for signs of animals. Our first sighting? Two white rhino hiding out in the bush. I tried my best to capture a good shot, but they were disguised just so and we couldn't get close enough. But at least that was 1 down of the Big Five! We continued on in hopes of seeing more... seeing plenty of wildebeests’ and impala along the way. They appeared to me to be much like deer back home...they were just everywhere! Sunset came quickly, and we stopped for "sundowners" as the sun bid it's good night. The colors were breathtaking...it never ceases to amaze me just how quickly the sun can sink below the horizon, but that it does. Our Guide wanted to take our picture and did his best to get us in focus and bring out the colors of the sunset, but he just couldn't seem to get them both together in happy union. That's okay, at least we have our picture together! I got my first taste of "bull tongue" (actually biltong) and we were back into the safari vehicle for some more (hopefully) animal sightings!

With the sun gone down, our Guide used a large spot light to scan the bush for animal eyes. We came across an owl in the trees, which quickly flew away just as I snapped the photo! We also came across an elephant- which is where our Guide explained that it is an unwritten South African rule to NOT shine a light in an elephant's eyes, unless you want to make him angry. So, we continued on and then Jacque's light shown upon a pair of eyes and the shadow of a cat... the Leopard! We were on a mad hunt to get as close as possible, traipsing off road and through the bush. Jacque was determined, stating that the Leopard is the one animal most people don't get to see. And then we saw him. He looked directly at us...just feet away...my eyes searching frantically in the lens of my camera in order to capture his image...and then just as soon as we found him, he was gone. The image only engrained in my mind.

That was the close of our first safari. 3 of the big 5 in one night, that's pretty good. But wait! Just as we were walking back to dinner, one of the staff called us back to the main building- elephant at the lodge's watering hole! 15-20 of them, babies and all! And oh, it was a sight to behold. The Lodge set out salt rocks for the animals to get more of the calcium, etc. they need during the winter months. Unfortunately for the elephants, these salt rocks are more meant to be licked than snuffed up through trunks. We watched as one determined elephant tried in vain to suck a very large salt rock up through his trunk. With no luck, he then stood on the rock, pressing down with all of his weight (smart elephant!), but the rock still would not budge. I stood the closest to the elephants as our guide had instructed us to sit on one of the steps. The other, louder and more boisterous guide, Andrew, (he lead a group of laughing women who continued to laugh and chatter as we tried to watch the elephants!) then called out to me, "Amanda, step back up here to the main level, the elephant might charge you," as he shines a light into the elephants face. My thought? Of course the elephant might charge, you are shining a light in his face, yelling and those ladies are giggling like schoolgirls! But I obeyed. The elephant never charged and I am alive. I doubt he would have charged me, though. After all, I rode one of his friends just a few weeks ago and took an elephant's kiss. Elephants love me! :)

We were soon ushered back to other building to partake of our meal: chicken or ostrich with potatoes and veggies. As promised, the meal was delicious. I had ordered the chicken, but after sampling Ben's ostrich, I found myself wishing I had been more adventurous with my taste buds! We sat around the table with the other guests, once again doing our best to stay engrossed in artificial conversation. What do you do? Etc. Not the best question for me right now, since I "just" make dinner in their eyes. Since Ben and I were seated in the middle of the table, we ended up just listening to the two conversations taking place around us. To our right? Nurse sisters discussing their patients and other medical practices. To our left? A bit of everything as the people seemed to be pointing out this or that strength over another. Finally, after doing my best to feign interest, the couple across from us rose to retire for the night. It was 10pm. We had to wait for the guide to return before we could go to our cabin. He came back and another couple jumped ahead of us. Waiting again. All I wanted was our lovely cabin! Finally it was our turn and we were escorted safely to our quarters.

Sleep came quickly with the hot water bags placed at the foot of the bed and fire (lit by my man, Ben!) and before we knew it, the time to rise for another safari had arrived. I dressed quickly in my new safari outfit, complete with Makweti stocking cap. Ben also grabbed his simple jacket and jeans and we were not the last ones to the main lodge for coffee and muffins. The muffins, by the way, were delicious. I will need to get the recipe because I don’t think it is in my muffin cookbook! Anyway, the other couple scheduled for our safari decided to sleep in, so this morning trip with Jacque turned out to be just for us.

Ben was quite happy when we spotted two hippo lounging in a watering hole. Unfortunately, that’s all they did. Lounge with their heads just barely above the water. So, after waiting and watching for about 15 minutes, we continued on in hopes of seeing more wildlife. Wildabeests’ and Impala were again plentiful as we drove through the camp. Our Guide hoped to find some buffalo as he used his tracking skills to try and seek them out. He also found a somewhat fresh Leopard track.

But we saw neither face to face. We drove and drove around the reserve and went about 45 minutes without seeing one thing until finally a few giraffe in the far off distance made their quiet appearance. Jacque explained that the reason for the lack of animal sightings was due to the cold snap that had just come through. He, too, seemed frustrated with the outcome of the morning’s drive. I truly think Jacque loves his job and quite plainly loves animals… he would get very excited as we would track an animal or come across one. So, after driving through the wilderness, we returned to the hippos. And they had moved! To the shore, just barely, with their bodies half in/half out of the water. There they sat and there we sat watching and waiting again, but they just sat there, oblivious to the humans in want of a performance. Time up, we returned to the lodge for yet another large meal.

Breakfast. Poached egg ham stacks- quite scrumptious yet again. My first ever poached egg, and I must say, I think that might be my favorite kind of egg now. We ate our fill and discussed how it seems that whenever you are out camping or something like it, the appetite is always more ravenous. I decided that we were not going to sit around for the “conversation” this time and we were the first to leave the breakfast table. Hey, we only had an hour until check-out and I wanted to get back up to that water hole! Ben was a little nervous as I packed the extra water bottles and mini shampoo, lotion, matches…I would have packed more, but Ben thought we would get in trouble. I just thought we paid a lot of money for the room and didn’t get to spend that much time there, so why not grab the few complimentary items for future use? Anyway, bags packed, we returned to the watering hole to find zebra, impala, wart-hogs and a baboon!

I of course started snapping picture after picture. So now I have about 5o pictures of the same thing, but that’s okay. More chance to find a favorite or two. There is one picture of me standing in front of the zebra and it actually looks as though I superimposed myself into the picture… I most definitely did NOT do that, but it cracks me up! Sad for the trip to be over and for the fact that we must return to the smoggy city of work, our trip came to a quick end.

Andrew was driving us to the parking lot.

I gave that sentence its own paragraph because it was an ordeal. Andrew drives the 4X4 much faster than Jacque. He didn’t slow down for bumps or wildlife or turns. He just drove. And you can picture me, back seat, camera poised, trying to capture the last minute memories like the awesome view….a super close giraffe! But he did not slow down. Ben and I did share a few laughs as we flew up out of our seats and down again, landing with a “thud” against the bench. Until that last bump. The one after the super close giraffe that I tried to photograph. The last bump sent my camera straight into the bar in front of me, along with my left knee. Praise God my camera was fine, as was my knee. But really? I was a little disappointed that Andrew was so quick to depart from us. I had to remind myself that he is just a more restless spirit than me. No crime in that.

We took one last look at the camp and transferred our belongings from the 4X4 to our Honda Jazz, ready to make the trip back “home” again. No rain this time, just sleepiness to accompany us back. And that is that. Our first South African Safari experience. We are ready for more. And I am sure you are too.

(more pics on facebook)